Wire numbers/ position in the PCB are 100% correct tho.
I could be wrong, im writing from my memory.
#SEADOO VTS TRIM FIX MANUAL#
Refer to your service manual wiring diagram to see what they do. reconnect your wires, use new wires, just make sure you label each of them accordingly to the wiring diagram from service manual.Ĭolor codes are (from bottom =1, to top =10)Ģ urple-white -accessory 12v for transistor supplyĩ:blue-white Switch2 if i remember correctly Sand lightly with steel wool after glue sets, then repair traces with solder wick or a wire.ĩ. I use super glue to fix badly burnt PCB's. Make sure your connection vias are conducting, especially on relay pins as they would get damaged when board was pulled out. Fix your traces, replace all broken parts. Rest of the board consists of simple transistor circuitry and some zener diodes, you may test them all with a multi meter but odds are they will be fine as they are located away from a possible water contact area.Ĩ. Resistors for reed switch bridge: MFR-25FBF52-14R3 I ended up buying all new relays, new reed switches as some of them did not test good with a volt meter when magnet was presented, and all resistors. Clean the board up with some steel wool and isopropyl alcohol.ħ.Locate your shorts, look for burnt spots.Īs you can see, my board got fried on the relay connections and on the resistor bridge right beside the reed switches. Take your time, You will most definitely damage some vias, traces etc, you will need to inspect it afterwards and repair all broken connections.Īs you can see my board had some water damage and serious short that left a hole in the PCB.Ħ. This is probably the hardest thing out of the whole process.disconnecting that board.
Take your time, keep the board hot with a heat gun, it will come out. You will re-seal everything later on so that won matter too much. Keep the board nice and hot, just dont burn it.Īlternatively you can cut off some of the plastic housing to gain access to the wires under the board. Keep the heat gun handy while you do this. Once all wires are cut board will come out. Fit a small side cutter under the board and start cutting the wires. Keep working your way up until you can see the wires underneath that are holding it in place.ĥ. I used a small hook pick and pulled only on the edges of the board. Be careful not to damage components under the board. Once the only one thing holding the board in are the wire terminals, gently pry the board from the top by sliding a long screwdriver underneath and pulling. Remove 4 mounting screw holding the PCB in place.Ībove picture was taken after the fix was done, this is just for reference to see what to desolder in order to pull the board out.Ĥ. Idea is so desolder them, then pull the board up, leaving relays and varistor in the epoxy underneath.ģ. There is a lot of epoxy under the PCB and you wont be able to pull the board up with relays and varistor attached. De-solder 2 relays and a varistor, make sure pins wiggle freely inside the vias (relay pins, varistor pins, double check with a needle nose). its actually pretty easy and it comes off in big chunks once you have it heated up to higher temperature. Scrape the upper layer of epoxy to expose the PCB
#SEADOO VTS TRIM FIX HOW TO#
Its quite easy if you have basic electronics knowledge and know how to solder.ġ. So i decided to give it a go since i had nothing to loose. TrimFix only gives you 4 positions for the gauge, and its over $150 shipped (im from Canada)īut i haven't seen anything about actually fixing the original module.
Well there is lots of information about the TrimFix module and/or cheap relay bypass fix. Nozzle would 'unscrew' in the lowest position and would not come back up without physical help. Unfortunately this disabled the gauge and limit stops were not active. Previous owner ended up cutting all the wires off the module and wiring his cheap relay fix. So i picked up my first seadoo, turned out vts was busted.
0 kommentar(er)
